EL Salvador is the small, forgotten Central American country bordering the Pacific and embraced by Honduras and Guatemala. After years of civil war the warm, spiritual people, many descendants of the Mayans and some still speaking the Mayan language, can farm and market their goods and practice their faith freely. Dozens of extinct and active volcanos both threaten the lives and livelihoods of Salvadorians and provide rich soils for coffee and other crops, and their upper slopes still protect cloud forests.